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Post by coolcash23 on Jun 26, 2005 15:22:55 GMT -5
I got another metal pad off ebay about 6 months off ebay again and it has been working great. The newer ones that they made with only 4 screws in the middle are a MUCH improved design over the old ones. Anyways, with that said, when I plugged it up to play ITG last night, it seems that the right arrow is stuck. On these pads when you hit an arrow the led's on the whole pad light up. Well, when I plugged up the pad last night all the arrows were already on, and on constantly. What baffles me is that the arrow only affects actual gameplay. When you are picking songs, modifiers, etc it doesn't act up, but when you play the actual game, that right arrow is constantly held up, making you miss about 50% of that side if you step on it or not (you have the same chance of hitting the arrow whether you step or not making you fail every time)
My question is how can this be fixed? If I disconnect the led for that side it will solve the issue of the led's being on the whole time, but I doubt this will solve the issue of the arrow being stuck. Even if the wires for the arrows are cut and re-soldered I don't see how that will help it either. Any ideas? Please let me know.
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Post by abrannan on Jun 26, 2005 18:45:19 GMT -5
I'll give you the same piece of advice I gave you last time you asked about metal pads you bought off of ebay. DO NOT BUY METAL PADS OFF EBAY. Honestly, for what you're in the hole already on these two pads, you could easily have an Afterburner, and possibly a Cobalt Flux. And those pads are not made by a fly by night operation like 90% of the metal pads on ebay are.
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Post by coolcash23 on Jun 27, 2005 18:58:57 GMT -5
LoL, I didn't want a lecture, I wanted possible advice on how to fix the pad. Again, any ideas?
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Post by abrannan on Jun 28, 2005 5:20:34 GMT -5
Clean the contacts on the right side. It sounds like the arrow is sticking a little bit. It probably doesn't show up when you're in song select, etc because you aren't trying to hit it in rapid succession.
My other piece of advice is that if you are going to continue to buy the cheap ebay metal pads, start learning about basic electronics, learn how to use a soldering iron, and learn how to trace connections. It wouldn't hurt to go pick up a basic continuity tester from radio shack, either. It'll save you a lot of time coming here and asking questions, and you'll be able to get your pads back in working order faster.
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Post by coolcash23 on Jun 28, 2005 19:06:51 GMT -5
First off, this is only the second and probably last metal pad I will buy off ebay, and this pad only cost $65 shipped included. It has been rolling 6+ months with me playing at least 3 times a week, for about 1 1/2 hours at a time, so if you add up the money I would have spent at the arcade, i'm still saving major money. I like playing and all, but $300-350 for a "not so cheap" metal pad is still high, give me a freakin break. Also, if I recall, this is only my second such pad thread ever, so all 20 minutes i've spent posting asking questions anyone would answer if they needed help don't seem like that big of a deal to me. Lastly, sorry i'm not an electronics expert and can take pads apart and re-wire + solder them, no one is good at everything. I'm sure there are things you know nothing about...one being how to stay in shape without playing a damn video game.  Anyway, thanks for your help, and if I have any other questions I will be sure to go elsewhere. |
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Post by abrannan on Jun 28, 2005 19:56:47 GMT -5
Also, if I recall, this is only my second such pad thread ever, so all 20 minutes i've spent posting asking questions anyone would answer if they needed help don't seem like that big of a deal to me. It may only take you 20 minutes to ask questions, but it takes others a good deal longer to answer those questions, particularly when there's not a lot of solid information to work from. True, but my point was that if you're going to get that frustrated about someone not helping you, you might do well for yourself by learning a little bit about how the pads work to help you get back to playing faster, and that's really what's important here, right? Getting your pad to work? See, now you're just making accusations out of anger, and making assumptions that because I choose to use a video game as a fitness routine I don't know how to do it any other way. There *are* plenty of things I know nothing about, but that's not one of them. Hey, that's your choice, and I wish you luck in finding the answers you seek. Fortunately we live in a world where DDR is popular enough to support several discussion forums so that if one isn't proving helpful, you can go to another. |
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Grant.
I post too much
fighting mediocracy
Posts: 2,563
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Post by Grant. on Jun 28, 2005 20:17:02 GMT -5
Don't talk to abrannan like that, it's not his fault you bought crappy merchandise off of ebay. He took the time to answer your questions. Jesus christ, get the item dislodged out of your anus please.
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Post by abrannan on Jun 28, 2005 22:19:25 GMT -5
Don't talk to abrannan like that, it's not his fault you bought crappy merchandise off of ebay. He took the time to answer your questions. Jesus christ, get the item dislodged out of your anus please. It's cool, I can understand and appreciate his frustrations. I let some of my frustrations out at him first, so it's not like this was unprovoked on his part. What this does point out to me is that I probably should pull together a pad troubleshooting guide to help everyone who's having pad trouble diagnose, and hopefully fix their problems. |
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Post by coolcash23 on Jun 28, 2005 22:46:07 GMT -5
I don't see why you had to get smart, I was just asking a basic question...isn't that what this discussion forum is for? You say you were letting out frustrations...frustrations for what...me asking a question? That was uncalled for I would say. You are my man! You are the one that had fixed my pad when it had broken....you are fam...there was no need to act funny about me asking an innocent question, give me break. Oh yeah, and grant...no one asked you clown....let me teach you some japanese real quick "suk dong." Another friday and saturday night DDR nerd.
Its all good abrannan, next time just don't go off on me for asking a fair question. Just tell me...what was so wrong with that? If I knew the answer to the question, then you think I would have asked it? Come on! Thanks for your advice anyway.
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Post by legend of croft on Jun 29, 2005 1:33:25 GMT -5
out of curiosity, which pads did you buy, and can you link me to the auction? just curious which one you got
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Post by abrannan on Jun 29, 2005 5:23:40 GMT -5
Oh yeah, and grant...no one asked you clown....let me teach you some japanese real quick "suk dong." Another friday and saturday night DDR nerd. Be very, very careful what you say next. I won't tolerate this sort of behavior here from either of you. Honestly? Because I feel a bit taken advantage of. You don't participate in the rest of the community here, your entire participation has been limited to "Make my pad work", "Make my account work", "Make Stepmania work" posts. You only use us for answers when it suits you, and I can't recall you attempting to help anyone else here answer any of their questions, or be social here in any way. Is that a requirement for getting questions answered? No, but it would certainly go a long way toward generating goodwill. But back to the original issue, did you try cleaning the contacts as I suggested? If so, did it work? If not, can you give me any other information about the behavior you're experiencing with the right arrow? Obviously something is completing the connection if the LEDs are lit. When you say that the right arrow is held up, doesn that mean that you can't get it to respond when you step on it, or that it's always activated? Have you tried connecting the pad with something else in the PS2 that will help you understand what the pad is sending to the PS2? Personally, I've found that using the training mode of Virtua Fighter 4 with the input dispkay turned on helps a lot when troubleshooting this sort of thing, as it displays what buttons are pressed and what way the d-pad is pressed. Even going into the PS2 menu and entering the memory card menu can help isolate and describe the pad's behavior. As for your response to the costs issue, let me bring up your own words: Yeah...I know Misery. I was adding up the costs of the generic metal pad yesterday. $70 metal pad cost $50 shipping $39 price to ship pad to get it fixed $39 price to ship pad back after fixed $10 price to fix left arrow Total $208. For another 100 bucks I could have gotten that CF pad, And you've spent another $65 above that. The RedOctane Metal pad (the Afterburner) is only $200, as long as shipping is less than $73, you'd be ahead of the game right now. I'm just sayin' is all. |
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Grant.
I post too much
fighting mediocracy
Posts: 2,563
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Post by Grant. on Jun 29, 2005 9:48:13 GMT -5
Im laughing because you wasted over two hundred bucks, and you're probably sitting alone at your computer, thinking you're tough ___ for insulting someone over the internet.
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xstatic
Spam Cop
100 Hours Achieved!! ('06, '07)
Happily Hardcore
Posts: 3,973
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Post by xstatic on Jun 29, 2005 9:57:20 GMT -5
**breaks out the margarita's** lets just chill, k? Nothing matters after a few of these babies!
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Post by abrannan on Jun 29, 2005 10:54:22 GMT -5
Grant, that's enough, okay?
Ooh! Margaritas!
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Post by psisar on Jun 29, 2005 11:20:04 GMT -5
**breaks out the margarita's** lets just chill, k? Nothing matters after a few of these babies! rofl I'm up for that. Cheers. |
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Post by coolcash23 on Jun 29, 2005 21:14:36 GMT -5
LOL, I feel you Xstatic...does it really matter anymore? Croft, the same pad that I bought is at this link: cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=21188&item=8201831387&rd=1Abrannan: The fact is that I don't even come here that often. I usually just kind of cruise through without even logging in most of the times that I even come here. That seems beside the fact. If you don't want to answer questions, you shouldn't be a moderator. I see all kinds of questions from people on here with those trash soft pads, and you always have thoughtful answers for them...I just didn't think your little underhanded comment was at all appropriate especially coming from you. Let's talk about the non-ebay pads real quick. You've got the Madcatz ($20), you got that wireless one they have ($35), you've got the redoctane metal pad ($149 or $199), and you've got the CF ($299). All of the pads except the CF ones are total trash. A dude I know got one of those RedOctane metal pads and he had to have 2 of the buttons resoldered by the 4th month. Pathetic for a $150 or $200 pad. The one I have is in the middle ground ($65) and it is a metal. Plus, usually it can be fixed cheap (plus has an improved design), and that is why I bought it. Just because it was bought on eBay doesn't necessarily make it total garbage, they have the redoctane and CF pads on there all the time now. Finally, I did plug it up again last night, and the button wasn't sticking at all, it was working just great. The X button seemed to be a little harder to hit, but even that was acting normal by the 5th song. Now, if the problems act up again I know how to fix it. So, ladies and gentleman...the moral of this story is: a) know what you're buying before you get it b) don't hate....participate! ;D |
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Post by legend of croft on Jun 30, 2005 2:30:58 GMT -5
there's another pad on ebay that looks more like a cobalt flux pad.....can't remember what seller has them, but it doesn't look so bad. i'm building my own metal pad in august, and i have my friend's cobalt flux until august when he comes back home for school.....so i can deal with waiting to build one. i was just curious which you had and what you thought of it aside from crapping out once in awhile. i have a few friends who bought metal pads on ebay and loved them aside from having to do minor repairs....for the money it's probably worth it if you know how to do minor repairs if something goes haywire.
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xstatic
Spam Cop
100 Hours Achieved!! ('06, '07)
Happily Hardcore
Posts: 3,973
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Post by xstatic on Jun 30, 2005 6:03:48 GMT -5
on that note I was going to reply with some cute/zany cartoon picture of someone getting electrocuted - which would hypothetically be me if I ever tried to do anything electrical. Word of advice - do not google electrocution.
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Post by abrannan on Jun 30, 2005 6:40:15 GMT -5
If you don't want to answer questions, you shouldn't be a moderator. First off, you seem to be a little confused about the role of a moderator. The moderator exists to ensure that the community functions, either by locking threads that have gotten out of hand, or in some cases banning people who decide to fling insults at people rather than be civil (something that has happened way too often in this particular thread). They are the "police" of the board, if you will. Nowhere in their job description are they required to answer any questions other than those related to the function of the board. Answering people's questions here is something I do because I want to, not because I have to. This is an unpaid volunteer position. What underhanded comment? All of my comments have been above board, and made in all earnestness and honesty. I do honestly think you'd do well for yourself to learn how basic switches (and dance pads) function. I have honestly told you not to buy metal pads off of ebay. I do honestly feel as though you're using this community without giving anything back. I have not made personal attacks against you, unlike your comments that I don't know "how to stay in shape without playing a D**N video game" or referring to another member here as "Another friday and saturday night DDR nerd." Not to be pedantic, but you're missing an entire class of pads here, the ignition style foam pads ($45-$110). Which, far from being total trash, in my opinion offer the best price/performance ratio of any pad out there. Have you seen the reviews for the redesigned RO Metal pad (the Afterburner)? Let me clarify my definition of "pad bought on ebay". I'm referring to the pads that are only available on ebay, not RO and CF pads being resold there. I have my doubts about the "improved design"of the TX-1000 having seen the prior generation of the TX-series pads, but if you're happy with it, more power to you. The problem likely stems from the copper contacts they use in their switch mechanism. Copper has a strong tendency to corrode, which can cause a buildup on the contact mechanism that can lead to a short circuit. I'd prefer they used an aluminum or Stainless steel based switch contact mechanism, or possibly a membrane switch, as those are less likely to corrode. Truer words are hard to come by. |
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Post by psisar on Jun 30, 2005 7:39:59 GMT -5
I'm just going to throw my two cents in... coolcash, abrannan has answered all of your questions, more specifically the same question you asked repeatatly. Anyone else would have gotten frustrated and told you off a few posts ago, especially when you're a volunteer going above your "job description" who's just trying to help. For future reference I suggest you be a little more patient and if you feel you want more answers, just ask, politely. IMO, abrannan is one of the most helpful people on this board and has done nothing but try and help you, despite your numerous posts demanding his help.
Not that it's any of my business. But a third party opnion isn't always a bad thing.
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